As it happens, I knew absolutely nothing about any of this
when, in 2010, I drove into Vilnius (from Riga in
Latvia via Kaunas) on, er, February 16th. I had no idea it was the National Day.
I did know that it was brutally cold. Scarily cold. And there was a humongous
bonfire right outside my hotel window. It crossed my mind that perhaps this was
some odd Baltic approach to keeping the city warm at night. But any excuse for
a party. I pulled on my coat and went off to mingle. More of an observer,
really, than a party-goer. But I did manage about five bonfires, I drank some
very quaffable beer, and ate some curious pastries, I discovered the old town, and
I learned about the fierce independent spirit of the Lithuanians. So all good.
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