My Map Pins (26): Ojców National Park, Krakow, Poland (Posted March 2021)

 

So there we were in Krakow, in March 2020, when the country went into the first Coronavirus lockdown. There had been fourteen confirmed cases and panic had set in. (The UK would not announce its own lockdown until eleven days later.)  We had one day left of our city break and it looked as if it might be a rather bleak day. All visitor-attractions were closing. All of the delightful bars and brasseries in the city, all museums and galleries, churches and castles. The salt mine was closed. Wartime memorial sites were closed. Oscar Schindler’s factory was closed. We had already done the city walking tour (recommended). What to do? We consulted a map and popped a random metaphorical pin into this place – Ojcówski Narodwy park, and the four of us set off there in a taxi that could comfortably have taken three. Ojcow is pretty small for a national park.  But there is a charming riverside walk through the gorge, and it is really rather lovely. Halfway along the trail, the river diverts through a trout farm with its own restaurant selling freshly caught trout. Hand on heart, it is the tastiest trout I’ve ever eaten. All in all we felt the lockdown had done us a favour. Check it out if ever you’re in Krakow.

what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location 

What3words: strategic.idiomatic.wound

Please check out my website for more information on my books. https://www.johnironmonger.com 






My Map Pins (25): Nouakchott, Mauritania (Posted March 2021)

Here's a quiz question for you. Can you name the capital of Mauritania? OK, perhaps you can because it happens to be the title of this Map-Pin post. But that's cheating. I bet you didn't know it before. Nouakchott is not a well known destination. It's a Saharan town.  A poor town in one of the poorest nations on earth. Brutally hot. I read in a travel guide that the city is subject to sandstorms on 200 days of the year. This isn't hard to believe. Everything about this city creates the impression that it is clinging onto life at the very fringes of habitability. We were there for just one night, driving through. We found a cheap hotel that put us up in a tent on the roof. 





In the morning, driving south on the long road towards Senegal, we witnessed a daily ritual that keeps the city alive. A tanker filled with freshwater had docked at the port, and now hundreds of donkeys were delivering water around the city. A standpipe at a crossroads was filling barrels and assorted containers, and a huge queue of donkeys and their drivers were lining up for their ration. What other city has a dependency on an army of donkeys for its water supply? We were quickly gone, leaving the city and its donkeys behind us, but I would like to have stayed longer. It felt as if there was a lot to explore here, and we missed it. It felt like a secret city, like Timbuktu, or something from the Arabian Nights. I often think about Nouakchott. This unlikely city in the sand. I don't suppose I shall ever go back. I feel quite sad about that. 

what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location

What3Words: rinse.claw.reheat

Please check out my website for more information on my books. https://www.johnironmonger.com 



My Map Pins (24): Llyn Elsi, Snowdonia, Wales (Posted March 2021)



The trail to Llyn Elsi, one thousand feet above the town of Betws-y-coed in Snowdonia, is one of our favourite walks. Pick a fine day to do it. Take a picnic. Park up behind St Mary's Church. Lace up your boots, and off you go.  It isn't a long walk. It's around four miles. But the first mile is pretty brutal - this is where you do most of the uphill stuff. When you reach the top, there's a surprise. A twisty-turny lake with a trail all the way around it. So basically, you climb the hill, you walk half way around the lake, you pick a spot with an amazing view for lunch, then in a more leisurely fashion you complete the circuit of the lake and you descend to Betws for a coffee or something stronger. Honestly you won't find many better walks than this. You can thank me when you've done it. 

My Map Pins (23): Skara Brae, Orkney (Posted March 2021)

 




Skara Brae is Europe’s most complete Neolithic village. It is older than Stonehenge or the Pyramids and was occupied for about seven centuries which is quite a humbling fact. It was built around 3,100 BC - so if you trace your ancestors back for 200 generations the chances are pretty good that someone in your family line helped build it. Why would Neolithic people choose to live in this windswept bleak corner of the British Isles? Why wouldn't they just set off south and make a home in Cornwall? Who knows? But it is truly an amazing place. I’d recommend a visit. It is a fair old journey to get there mind. We drove to Thurso on the very north tip of the Scottish mainland, and took the ferry. We might have seen an orca. Some passengers did. But what we saw might just have been a wave. Never mind. We always need to remember, as TS Eliot said, ‘It is the journey, not the arrival that matters.’ That is especially true of Orkney, but mainly because the journey there is so beautiful. If you’ve never been to Orkney, add it to your wish list. 

what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location

What3Words: calendars.handwriting.rotation

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com



My Map Pins (22): Gole Alcantara, Sicily (Posted March 2021)

 




I’m not quite sure how, or why we ended up at Alcantara Gorge. I suspect we had exhausted the charms of Taormina and we were looking for a way to fill an hour or so, and there was a throwaway line in a guide book that made it sound interesting. There were six of us, but that was OK; we had a big car. The approach to the gorge isn’t auspicious. It’s like a low budget theme park with a rather empty car park and turnstiles. But the gorge itself was a surprise. Sue is a geologist so she loved it. I can’t remember the technical explanation behind the curious rocks. It has to do with the volcano (the gorge is on the foothills of Etna). I don't need to know. But it is pretty spectacular. Worth the trip if you’re visiting Taormina.  

what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location

What3words: Unpaged.skaters.operational

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com

A Farewell to Barbara Whitnell (17th March 2021)



 

My aunt, Ann Hutton, was the novelist Barbara Whitnell - (a name she took from her own grandmother). She was, I believe, the author of 14 published novels, and she made the Times Bestseller list. She died this week just short of her 92nd birthday. Ann was a big inspiration to me and encouraged me to write. I owe her a great deal. She was a larger than life character. She was just ten when the war broke out, and sixteen when it ended, but it often felt to me as if she was more at ease with the post war generation. She was more of a 1950s-breakout-woman, than a 1940s-war-girl; always slightly rebellious, a rule breaker, a risk taker. She lived a glamorous life - living in places like Kenya and the Turks and Caicos Islands, but it was to Cornwall, the county of her childhood, that she so often returned, and about which she would write many of her stories. She and her husband Bill retired to Fowey, a little fishing village on the Cornish coast, and is was from here that Ann wrote many of her books.

I can reveal now that Ann was the inspiration behind the character of Demelza Trevarrick in my novel, 'Not Forgetting the Whale.' (The Whale at the End of the World). One clue, for anyone with a memory long enough, was the name of Ann's house in St Austell in the 1960s - 'Trevarrick'. There wasn't much similarity between Ann's life and Demelza's (beyond the fact that both were romantic novelists living in Cornish seaside villages), but all the same it was Ann's voice that I could hear in my head whenever Demelza spoke. She had a knowing way of talking, with the allure of someone who knows everything and has seen everything. I remember Ann in the 1960s used to smoke cigarettes in a holder like Audrey Hepburn, and that too, for some reason, became an image I attached to Demelza.

It occurs to me now, as I write this, that there is a coincidence I can relate. Sometime in the 1990s (I shall guess at 1996) I was boarding a flight at Heathrow bound for Johannesburg. It was a business trip. I heard a voice calling my name. There was Ann. I hadn't met or spoken to her for several years. But by an extraordinary twist of fate she was on the same flight, off on a book tour of South Africa. She and Bill were in First Class. I was in steerage. Nonetheless, when we were in the air, she came and sat in the seat next to me and we gossiped for much of the journey. We talked a lot about writing. About the discipline, and the mechanics, and the preparation. I had written a non fiction book at this stage (The Good Zoo Guide) but I wanted to write fiction. She gave me some advice that I have often passed onto others as if the wisdom was my own. 'Just write it,' she told me. 'It may not be a masterpiece. Your first novel rarely is. But writing is a craft, and you will get better.'

Ann leaves behind her four lovely children, my cousins Lindsay, Judi, Chis and Tim - and of course her grandchildren and great grandchildren. She also leaves those books.

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com

My Map Pins (21): Fuveau, Provence, A very French Book Festival (Posted March 2021)

 

Every autumn the lovely, hilltop village of Fuveau, in Provence, hosts a three day book festival.  And what a festival! Book lovers come from all over France. There are also a couple of hundred authors, all with books to promote. (I am shamelessly guessing that number. Maybe someone will tell me the real figure some day and I can correct it). The writers all sit behind tables in the main town square, with heaps of their books on display. It is like a huge flea-market for books. Visitors browse around and look at the books, and chat, and occasionally they will buy one and the author will sign it, and it is all enormously convivial and very French. 






The festival is organised by Les Ecrivains en Provence. Each year they invite four guest writers from another country, and for these fortunate authors they put on a generous display of Provencal hospitality, and as you might expect, there is music and frivolity, and a great deal of wine is drunk, and food consumed. In 2016 Britain was the featured country and I was hugely privileged to be one of the four British writers invited to be there (the others were Stuart Neville, Amanda Hodgkinson, and the brilliantly entertaining Peter Guttridge.)   If you happen to be in the South of France in the autumn, check their website.  (https://www.fuveau.com/SSL.htm) – you might just catch the festival. You don’t have to be French to enjoy it. And Fuveau itself is a charming place.    

what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location

What3words: Showy.tearooms.joggers

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com

My Map Pins (20): Nyhavn, Copenhagen (Tattoo Ole's) (Posted March 2021)

 



Sometimes you come across a place in a novel and you really want to visit. There’s a tattoo parlour that features in John Irving’s novel, ‘Until I Find You,’ called Tattoo Ole’s. It might help to know that the novel unfolds within the rather curious subculture of European nautical tattoo shops, and Tattoo Ole’s is one of these. (Great novel by the way – although it is 824 pages long and I did regret taking it on holiday; it was like carrying around a brick.) Irving describes the location of the tattoo shop in Nyhavn, Copenhagen, and I was left wondering if this was a place Irving had invented (perfectly allowable) or if, perhaps, it was real. Well it turns out that Irving does his research. Tattoo Ole’s is said to be the oldest tattoo shop in the world. I wasn’t even looking for it, I was just mooching (again – see my map pins no.18) but when I discovered it here on the waterfront. I was strangely delighted. What’s more it was exactly how I’d imagined it. Books can do that.

what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location


My Map Pins (19): The Pyramids at Saqqara and Abusir (Posted March 2021)

 So I read about this in 'The Rough Guide to Egypt' and really wanted to do it. You hire camels at Giza, and then you ride across the desert to the pyramids at Abusir, and onwards to the pyramid field at Saqqara. It is about fifteen kilometres to Abusir, and another three or four kilometres to Saqqara. So it is perfectly do-able. The trick, apparently, is to get a taxi to Giza quite early in the morning and ask around for anyone who rents out camels and a guide. And that turned out to be easy. But it is, nonetheless, a pretty tough ride. It takes around four or five hours, there is no shade at all, and it gets hot. Ridiculously hot. We had two guides, two camels, and a stallion. Sue preferred the stallion to the camels. I stuck to my camel. 









One of the best things is watching the great pyramids getting smaller and smaller on the distant horizon.  And then at last you get to Abusir and Saqqara and you have these extraordinary historical sites to yourself. All the crowds are at Giza. I don't think many people do this desert trip. At one point a police Landcruiser came racing towards us over the sand. They had never seen tourists this far out in the desert. Perhaps we were being abducted. 

 I would so recommend this adventure. In fact I would do it all again in a heartbeat.


What3words: fresh.masters.destroyer 


My Map Pins (18): Pioneer Plaza, Dallas (Posted March 2021)

 It’s good to be surprised when you travel. Most of the time, as tourists, we get directed or transported to all the significant places, or we use TripAdvisor, or a city guide, and we set off to see the sights with a sense of purpose. So when you just chance upon something amazing it can be oddly moving. It happened to me in Dallas when I was simply mooching along a sidewalk minding my own business. This cattle drive at a road junction turns out to be the biggest bronze artwork in the world. I had never heard of it! It commemorates a nineteenth century cattle drive that took place along the Shawnee Trail, and it consists of 49 larger-than life cattle and three mounted cowboys. It is quite an astonishing piece of work in an otherwise fairly dull city.  Mooching can pay off.  You heard it here.





what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location

What3Words: shadow.burn.jelly

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com

My Map Pins (17): The Great Wall of China at Mutianyu (Posted March 2021)

 

It was a pretty muggy day when we got to the wall. A lot of days are muggy in Beijing. Not great for photographs, but no matter. The Great Wall really is everything you want it to be. It is a mind boggling construction that just goes on and on. Very few adjectives really do it justice. 'Awesome' barely hints at the colossal scale of the thing.

 Mutianyu is probably the most popular place to see the wall. It is an easy ride from Beijing, it is well provided with coach parks and restaurants, and it is absolutely heaving with visitors. This, by the way, should not come as a surprise. Most (almost all) the visitors are Chinese tourists visiting the wall themselves for the very first time. The wall is a marvel to them just as much as it is for us. Of course it is. So for the foreign visitor I have a very valuable tip. Don't take a coach trip to the wall. Don't take an organised tour from your hotel. Take a taxi. The reason for this became very clear to us after a while. The coaches and tours allow their parties an hour to explore the wall before they bundle everyone back onto the bus to take them off to a jade museum or a silk factory or whatever. So the vast crowds amble along the wall for half an hour, and then, reluctantly, they turn back. They don't want to miss their bus. But if you get there by cab, you have no such time cap. You can wander on. Suddenly you break free of the crowd. You climb a hill, and oh my god, you have the Great Wall of China to yourselves. Almost. We kept on going until our legs instructed us to turn around (and it can be very tiring in places).  Honestly, you could stay there all day. 


What3words: zebra.pressed.disarming


My Map Pins (16): Tanjung Puting, Borneo (Posted March 2021)

 









The orang utan in the photo is wild. Or semi wild. This is the Tanjung Puting national park on the island of Borneo where orangs are well protected, and where captive apes are re-introduced into the forest, so some of the orangs here are more relaxed around people than others. All the same, they aren’t always easy to spot in the trees, so it was a magical, heart-stopping moment when this mother and her child swung down towards us and reached out her arm. I think Sue’s face in the photo fairly accurately reflects the way she felt.

I have blogged about this before I know, so apologies if you feel you've read this all twice - but I do want to plug this as a tourist experience. It is almost incomparable. And orang utans need the visitors. The more people who visit, the more incentive there is for countries like Indonesia and Malaysia to keep the parks. You don’t need a swanky travel company. You can find little tour-boat companies in Candi on the Kumai River if you search online. Which is how we did it. This is how it works. You fly to Pangkalan Bun in Central Kalimantan, and you hire a klotok, and a crew. A klotok is an Indonesian river boat. Your crew is a captain, an engineer, a cook and a guide. You have the boat to yourselves. You set off into the Tanjung Puting reserve up the Sekonyer River which is the only way you can get there. The river winds languidly through the jungle. It is a three day trip. You spend both nights on the top deck, underneath a mosquito net, listening to the sounds of the forest. You’ll see hundreds of proboscis monkeys. You’ll see flocks of fruit bats. All manner of birds. You’ll see orangs and gibbons. It is blissfully peaceful. You rarely see another boat – except at Camp Leakey where all the boats park up to let you go off exploring on foot. There seem to be around twenty boats on the river. But it is a big river. Wildlife watching trips don’t get much better than this.  

what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location

What3words: termite.plucky.marriage

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com

My Map Pins (15): The Transfăgărășan Highway, Romania (Posted March 2021)

 BBC’s ‘Top Gear’ called this, ‘The Best Road in the World™.’ And who are we to argue? It is a 150km mountain pass in Transylvania built for the odious Romanian dictator Ceaucescu as an escape route in case of a Soviet invasion. Hundreds of workers are said to have died in its construction. The road twists and turns, and climbs to 2,000 metres (6,600 ft) (that’s nearly twice the height of Snowdon - British readers), and it is only open for three months of the year due to snow. 





There were four of us (Sue, Val, Mick, me) in a wholly unsuitable hire-car. It was September, and it was jolly cold at the top. But what the heck. The Transfăgărășan is a glorious, outrageous, and utterly bonkers switchback road, occasionally terrifying, with unbelievable views – well worth the long and rather dull drive north from Bucharest. 

what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location 

What3Words: bluntly.bucking.formula

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com

Another Amazing Cover (8th March 2021)

 



I wanted to share these two covers with you. I am in awe of them both. The first is the design for 'The Many Lives of Heloise Starchild,' by the utterly brilliant Tomasz Almeida. The second isfor the Dutch Translation, 'De Vele Levens van Heloise Starchild,' - and this design is by the genius that is Edward Bettison. They are both truly gorgeous. We are not worthy. 

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com

My Map Pins (14): Poprad, Slovakia (Posted March 2021)

 Sue and I took the night train to Poprad from Prague. That wasn’t a great idea. This was 1995. It wasn’t all that long after the collapse of communism. We shared a sleeper carriage with four Russian soldiers with smelly feet and loud snores. We didn’t sleep much. We disembarked at dawn in Poprad ... a sleepy, godforsaken, city in the foothills of the Tatras. Much of Poprad was pretty grim. Yet we were somehow charmed by the place. (Many years later I would set the first few chapters of my novel, ‘The Many Lives of Heloise Starchild,’ here. That’s a plug by the way.) No one spoke any English. Or French. We ordered meals in cafés by gesturing for food and eating whatever came. Sue found this unspoiled neighbourhood (the one in the photographs) in a guide book. We walked around, took two snapshots (these) and got a local bus back to the station.



what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location  

What3Words: loaders.equality.pizza

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com


It's the Virtual Paperback Launch Day for 'The Many Lives of Heloise Starchild' (4th March 2021)

 Launch days are exciting times for a writer. Today is a little different though. Bookshops are still closed. Airport and station book-stands are unnaturally quiet. We are all in a curious kind of limbo. Waiting for the summer. Meeting up on zoom calls. Catching up on boxsets. What a time to launch a book.  

So, Ladies and Gentlemen, with your permission, let me launch The Many Lives of Heloise Starchild virtually. Ta da! Here it is: (don't you agree it looks gorgeous?)



 Let me tell you about Heloise. I wanted to write a long story. Not a long book, but a tale that would span several centuries. A narrative that would push great historical events into perspective and might help us to make sense of the turmoil of the past few hundred years. Perhaps even of the past few years. But how do you do that without changing the lead character every few chapters? One day I had an idea. What if Heloise’s daughter was to inherit her memories? And what if her daughter, in turn, inherited those memories too? There could be a continuous story that would cross the generations. And so Heloise was born. Her story starts on a night when Halley’s comet lights up the sky in 1759. Her many lives will become a great adventure, where the backdrop is a whole swathe of recent history. It will be a search for family treasure. It will be a nail-biting escape from tyranny. Above all, it will become the warm, inspiring story of a strong woman with a good heart.

I am proud of The Many Lives of Heloise Starchild. It feels like the book I always wanted to write.  I should love for you to read it. And, in the absence of any book signings, or even of a launch party, I would be happy, instead, to join you and your book-club (if you have one) on a zoom call if you choose to read the novel. I will try to join any group that invites me. So please let me know.

And huge thanks to lots of people. To my brilliant editor Fede, to my amazing agent Stan, to my incredible wife Sue, and to all the extraordinary people at W&N Books and Orion. Thank you.

John Ironmonger. March 4th 2021. Parkgate, Cheshire

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com



My Map Pins (13): A bus roof in Tandi Bazaar, Nepal (Posted March 2021)

How did we come to be on the roof of a bus in the Himalayas? Well, Your Honour, the bus was full and we needed to get to the Indian border; other people were climbing onto the roof, and so we thought, ‘what could possibly go wrong?’ And for the first hour it was quite exciting – apart from the dust clouds and the exhaust fumes and the extreme discomfort. The bus tootled along at a leisurely pace, we stopped in little towns to let more passengers onto the roof, and from time to time fruit sellers came past and sold us slices of oranges. It was all fairly civilised. 

 



Then we started the long winding road down the mountainside towards Sonauli and suddenly it began to get scary. The road dropped away dramatically on one side. Great views and all that but it was too terrifying to keep your eyes open for long. The driver put his foot down and now we were tearing around hairpin bends at breakneck speeds, clutching onto the roof rack for dear life. We clung on and prayed for about an hour and at the next stop we climbed down and found a seat in the bus. I think perhaps the next time we’ll take a taxi. 

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com

what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location

What3Words: sailboat.scalps.sustaining

My Map Pins (12): Jökulsárlón, Iceland (Posted March 2021)

 ‘We should go to Jökulsárlón,’ Graham said. Really? It is a five hour drive from Reykjavik, so this was going to be ten hours of driving. But the essential rule when travelling is, 'never say no', so we nicked some food from the hotel breakfast to make into sandwiches, and we set off before dawn. It was March. Still bloody cold. But you want Iceland to be cold. The road twists around the southern coastline, past the famous Eyjafjallajökull volcano, and it is a spectacular drive. And OMG! Jökulsárlón is utterly worth the trip. 







I promise to post more of Iceland – but for the four of us (Sue, me, Graham, Jen) Jökulsárlón was the highlight. It is where the great Vatnajökull glacier calves off into the sea. It is awe inspiring and humbling and beautiful. If you visit Iceland, put it on the top of your list.

Please check out my website to learn more about my books:  https://www.johnironmonger.com

what3words /// The simplest way to talk about location

  What3Words: bamboo.roughing.filmy


A Moment that Changed my Life .. (not) 18 Dec 2024

  I need to find a "moment" for a newspaper-column pitch, where my life changed. That’s the way the gig works you see. It’s called...